Transgender showgirls pop up in the Marina
Dolls SF fills the void left by beloved San Francisco institution AsiaSF.
By Adriana Roberts
For 26 years, SOMA restaurant AsiaSF served up a unique take on “dinner and a show” by offering up Asian cuisine presented by transgender female servers who weren’t just your wait staff, but also your entertainment. Long before drag brunches became such a thing, AsiaSF popularized the concept, only not with drag queens, but actual transgender women.
The long-running institution gave API and POC trans girls employment opportunities that normally would have proved difficult to acquire, especially back in the late 1990s and early 2000s. It was a concept similar to Lucky Cheng’s in New York City, or any number of places in Bangkok, Thailand. And it was always a fun night out.
Sadly though, when AsiaSF’s owners decided to retire in April, it left its showgirls in a lurch. But now only a couple months later, the ladies are back on stage, rebranding themselves as Dolls SF, and doing a pop-up version in the Marina on Friday and Saturday nights through August 10th.
Considering the core audience for this sort of thing seems to be a mostly non-queer crowd looking to spice things up with something a little “exotic” or different for a night out, moving this dining concept to the most notoriously heterosexual neighborhood in San Francisco perhaps isn’t a bad idea.
That said, it’s still a bit of a culture shock to step into Westwood — a popular country-western bar in the Marina — knowing you’re going to see sequin-clad Asian trans women lip-syncing diva pop songs between serving you food.
It was therefore a relief to discover that Dolls SF actually takes place in a hidden side room annex which, as evidenced by the left-over neon signage at the entrance, is the former home of themed pop-up bars dedicated to Taylor Swift and Olivia Rodrigo. It is its own little world, and one that San Francisco is fortunate to have back.
The ladies of Dolls SF are as charming and friendly as ever, making everyone feel warm and welcome. It’s obvious they’re grateful for the opportunity to perform again and these hard-working showgirls definitely put in their all.
The 3-course dinner is no longer Asian-inspired but has instead been replaced by heartier, Italian-inspired fare. And while I’m no restaurant critic, we had no complaints about our salad or fried pickle starter, nor the seafood linguini main courses. They also have vegetarian options for each course as well.
But let’s face it: Nobody is really here for the food. The dinner has always played second fiddle to the main attraction, which is the show. The women of Dolls SF have got their “va-va-voom” down, complete with sparkly costumes, sexy moves, and an alluring stage presence, performing two sets of numbers throughout the meal.
My only complaint is that the show could very much use an emcee, not only to announce the name of each performer, but also to hype up the crowd between acts. The silent pregnant pauses between numbers were a bit awkward, but could easily be fixed by having a hype girl on stage with a microphone. Still, this is a small quibble for a show that was obviously still figuring out how best to adapt to its new location.
Dolls SF is only running for seven more weekends, so unless the show gets extended, so don’t sleep on getting a taste — literally — of this unique piece of queer San Francisco culture that deserves to maintain its legacy.
Dolls SF takes place every Friday and Saturday night at 6 PM and 8 PM at Westwood, 2036 Lombard Street, San Francisco, CA 94123. Tickets start at $29. https://bucketlisters.com/experience/dolls-sf
Adriana Roberts is a DJ and performer with her Bootie Mashup parties, as well as a writer and trans influencer.
The Bold Italic publishes first-person stories on topics that are on the brains and lips of San Franciscans. We’re a hub for conversations to be heard and discussed, and we celebrate all that’s great about living in San Francisco and the Bay Area. We hope our continuing conversation will get you thinking, talking, and inspiring you to share your opinions with us on living in San Francisco.
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What we’re doing this week
San Francisco Pride Parade
The crown jewel of Pride Month, the SF Pride Parade will take over Market Street on Sunday, June 30th. Expect dazzling floats, lively music, and a sea of rainbow colors. The celebration at Civic Center Plaza continues the festivities with live performances, food vendors, and community booths. This year’s theme focuses on unity and resilience, promising an unforgettable experience.
When: June 30, 2024
Where: Market Street to Civic Center Plaza
Ginger’s reopening
After four years in hibernation, Ginger’s is back and ready to shine for Pride weekend. Reopening at 86 Hardie Place on Friday, June 28, the festivities kick off with a blessing from the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence and a party.
Ginger’s is said to be the only queer-identified bar in the Financial District. They aim to recapture its role as a safe haven for the community. The bar, which originally opened in 1978, has a rich history of serving San Francisco's LGBTQ+ community.
WHERE: 86 Hardie Place, San Francisco
WHEN: This weekend, with a ribbon cutting happening Friday
Mrs. Doubtfire: The Musical
The beloved movie-turned-musical takes center stage at the Orpheum Theatre in San Francisco. Mrs. Doubtfire is the classic tale of Daniel Hillard, an out-of-work actor who transforms himself into the lovable Scottish nanny, Euphegenia Doubtfire. With unforgettable songs and show-stopping dance numbers, the musical captures the heart and humor that made the 1993 movie a timeless favorite.
WHEN: Opening night July 3-28
WHERE: 1192 Market St, San Francisco, CA